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| This warmed my heart as a health volunteer, seeing everyone use our new soap to wash their hands before lunch! Side note - the legs and grey skirts on the stairs belong to nurses, who are in a row intricately braiding each other's hair while on the job. This is one of the most common scenes I observe here many times a day - there is a lot of downtime, in school, at work, at home, and much of that time and whatever money is available to women goes toward hairstyles. I love how this group exemplifies the total mixing of styles you find here - traditional African dresses, jeans, button down blouses and t-shirts, athletic wear, headwraps or baseball caps, mixing and layering loud patterns... Women and men are constantly going between traditional and western styles, or wearing them all at once, with cute shoes, blinged out handbags (see below!) and shiny jewelry to accessorise (thanks to the excess of Chinese imports you can get any of those things for $0.20, though of course they last about a week). It's a part of the culture I love - anything goes. |
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Another
everyday occurrence is people scrambling to keep any potential profits or
benefits you present close to home. Every person I have talked to this program about has
immediately asked if we already have people doing the trainings and preparing the meals,
the hope being that either they can do it (even if they don't really know how,
they will figure it out!) or that they can bring the work to someone in their
family, which will guarantee them a piece of the profit pie, as well as a
"now you owe me" one-up-man ship type of advantage: I help you, you
help me. If you ever ask anyone where to buy nails, curtains, or eggs in this
part of town, it’s never the closest or best-liked or well-stocked shop they
will point you to - instead they will take you on a wild goose chase to track
down their cousin, who has a little hardware shack - and if he left for a four
hour lunch break, you should wait for him and not go anywhere else. If someone
is out of tomatoes, she will take you to her friend's stand across the market, making it clear
she is the one bringing business...hint hint for when she is next in need of a
helping hand, which is sure to be soon.
So naturally when I brought up with the hospital
staff that we needed someone to prepare our lunches, the team leader jumped in
with, "Yep, I know someone, don't worry about it." Guess who? Good ol'
mom...who turns out to be an AWESOME cook - yesterday we had delicious ndole
with plantains and baton de manioc. All the trainers have asked if we already
have someone for the other topics- they are hoping they can lead us to someone
or get booked for that gig as well. It's an interesting aspect of their
extremely interdependent society: all these favors for others help build up
your own safety net. When systems like bank loans, health insurance, damage
insurance, credit cards, orphanages, and welfare don't exist, your family and
friends end up playing all those roles in ways that as Americans most of us
could not imagine getting tangled up in.
This is one of the reasons it's
extremely hard for people to save money; even those who work never seems to
have $1.00 to their name. First off, hardly anyone has a bank account - what
you have is in your pocket and usually gets spent immediately, partially because
otherwise ten family members are imploring you to help them with school fees,
medicine, housing, food. If you are lucky enough to come out ahead in your
work, your money is never your own, it is absolutely expected that you will help out family members who need it, and there is always someone - a reality that is emphasized to me each
time I try to talk to someone about saving for college or to start their own
business. This famous culture of African solidarity unfortunately seems to keep
many people from being able to move upas individuals. Hopefully if we give small loans to people where they are required to put the money toward start-up costs, they will at least cross that hurdle of not being able to save up enough before its claimed away by others; then, whether the profits of the selling are helping them or their family, at least it will be bringing money into the community. |
And on the note of people being stuck in the cycle of poverty and need, and of programs like this that aim to help break that cycle for a few, I want to share a great article, passed on by my sister.
David Brooks hits the nail on the head of what I see as a grassroots worker in Cameroon: "You can cram all the nongovernmental organizations you want into a country, but if there is no rule of law and if the ruling class is predatory then your achievements won’t add up to much." While I love the work I'm doing here and do not doubt that the information and skills I get across are impacting the lives of certain individuals, change at the larger scale that can bring improvements to a whole society requires action and cooperation from national institutions, something desperately lacking here.
Here is an articulate, insightful wake-up call to social justice-lovers like myself, and to my generation of do-gooders faithful to a religion of global service, about the shortcomings of our preferred approaches, and where big change really stems from. An eye-opening read. http://www.nytimes.com/2012/04/13/opinion/brooks-sam-spade-at-starbucks.html?_r=2






Tess this is so amazing. Your photos are fab! I feel like I could spend hours of an Emma class dissecting all the aspects of this event that you point out-- the interdependence of the society, the melange of styles and ages, the family promotions, the hand washing, the [gorgeous, sculpted!] legs of the women who fill their free time in hair style fellowship... Thank you so much for putting this together. xoxo Mimi
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